Arctic Ice Festival - Abisko - i samarbete med Arctic Guides
Abisko Arctic Ice Festival, ett bra ingånget event i Svenska Lappland, omgivet av isfall, fina fjäll och norrsken!
Under en långhelg 26 februari - 1 mars hade vi stor uppslutning av ett 40-tal klättrare och inbjudna föredragshållare.
Alpine Madness var på plats som representant för Grivel och Uhrweder och under dagarna klättrade vi ett par av de etablerade isfallen i området runt Riksgränsen och Abisko.
Tillsammans med ett par av deltagarna så höll Krister traditionen uppe med att klättra en nytur under arrangemanget. Denna gången på Sydväggen av Vassitjåkka. 6 replängder WI5.
Arctic Ice Festival kommer givetvis att arrangeras nästa år också så häng på låset för att anmäla dig och få en plats!
För upplägg gällande kostnad tid och plats, Abisko Ice
//Häng med
Nytur på Vassitjåkka, tre glada grabbar
Kvällsklättring i Abisko jokken, maxad belysning!
Fred Degoulet på mixad klättring i Abisko Jokken
Stora Blå, Björkliden
Glada tjejer i rep
och på vertikalen!
Nytur på gång i Vassivagge
Program 2015
Thursday
15.00 Check in & registration (Reception/ STF Abisko Mountain Station)
15.00 Petzl gear station opens (Abisko Canyon)
16.00 -18.00 Warm up climbing (Abisko Canyon)
18.00-19.30 Break for dinner & sauna
19.30-22.00 Welcome! (AICF Lounge Bar)
. Festival meeting & sign up for clinics
. ”Safety first” by Anders Bergwall
Friday
07.00 Gathering and transfer to icefalls
07.00-16.00 Clinics (Sweden & Norway)
08.00-16.00 Petzl gear & dry tooling stations (Abisko Canyon)
16.00 After Climb opens (AICF Lounge Bar)
. ”Gear maintenance” by Stefan Lindblom
18.00-20.00 Break for dinner & sauna
20.00-23.00 After climb (AICF Lounge Bar)
. ”The six classic north faces of the Alps” by Krister Jonsson
Saturday
08.00 Gathering and transfer to icefalls
08.00-16.00 Clinics (Sweden)
08.00-16.00 Petzl gear & dry tooling stations
16.00 After Climb opens (AICF Lounge Bar)
17.00 “Aurora Ice climbing” dry tooling dyno competition
19:00 Festival Dinner (Restaurant/ STF Abisko Mountain Station)
20.30-23.00 Petzl night (AICF Lounge Bar)
. ”Aurora hunting” by Chad Blakley
. ”- – – – – – – – – – ” by Fred Degoulet
Sunday
09.00 Transfer to icefalls
09.00-15.00 Clinics (Abisko)
09.00-15.00 Petzl gear & dry tooling stations (Abisko Canyon)
16.00 Festival closing
Clinics during AICF 2015:
Basic Ice/MixPrerequisite: beginnerBasic ice and mixed climbing technic. You will learn the basic movement on ice and mixed terrain, to handle the tools and crampons and to belay top rope climbing.
Lead ice climbingPrerequisite: Intermediate climberIntroduction to lead climbing on ice. Choosing equipment, racking up, picking a safe line and belay site, placing of protection and rope work.
Traditional Scottish mixed leadPrerequisite: lead climb indoor or outdoor and belay. You don’t have to master trad climbing to participate in this clinic. Traditional Scottish mixed contains a variety of climbing technic like torquing, jamming and hammering in frozen turf. You will learn these technics and try to place some gear on lead like ice hooks, hexentrics, warthogs, pitons and nuts. First on TR, then on lead.
Ice strenght / belay / rapell / abalakovPrerequisite: Basic ice and sport/rock climbing.
Try different types of belay systems, abalakov strength and rapell ( abseiling methods).
Try different types of belay systems, abalakov strength and rapell ( abseiling methods).
Efficient multi pitch
Prerequisite: Beginner and intermediate ice climbing course or similar experience. And some lead climbing on indoor or outdoor wall.
You will learn to be effective on lead, try different methods of alternate lead,taking care of the rope at the belay etc.
Prerequisite: Beginner and intermediate ice climbing course or similar experience. And some lead climbing on indoor or outdoor wall.
You will learn to be effective on lead, try different methods of alternate lead,taking care of the rope at the belay etc.
Efficient and safe belayPrerequisite: All levels
Learn to set up a safe and efficient belay. Rope work, change over and to how be comfortable on a belay.
Learn to set up a safe and efficient belay. Rope work, change over and to how be comfortable on a belay.